How To Transfer Windows 8 Serial Key From Hard Drive To Ssd

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If we have an old PC we don't use, or that doesn't work anymore, we might be able to transfer Windows to a new PC and have a legitimate Windows installation without buying a new license. Of course, as is the case with Microsoft, it's more complicated to transfer Windows than it should be.

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What makes the transfer complicated is that there are different license tiers for Windows.

With a Retail license, we can transfer Windows just fine, and we won't have a problem with the activation on the new PC.

If however we had a preinstalled OEM Windows license - that might have come with an old laptop, and we want to use it for a new custom desktop - Internet activation won't work. We need to activate by telephone to transfer Windows successfully.

Table of Contents

Find the Windows product key
Transfer Windows to a new PC

Find the Windows product key

Before we transfer Windows to a new PC, we need to know the Windows product key.

If we have bought a retail version of Windows, we will find the product key inside the DVD box if we got a physical Disc, or probably in an email for digital purchases.

For Windows 7 that came preinstalled on an old PC, we will find the product key on a sticker, usually underneath a laptop or on the side of the tower on a desktop PC.

PCs with preinstalled Windows 8, 8.1, and 10 have the product key embedded in the BIOS. You can check out our guide:
Windows 8.1 Product Key: How to Get it from the BIOS

Finally, we can get the product key from inside Windows, even if the system cannot boot into Windows, provided the old PC and its hard drive still work.
Find the Windows Product Key in Any Version of Windows

Make sure to remove Windows completely from the old PC

Every Windows license - excluding Enterprise volume licensing - can only be installed on a single PC.

After we get the product key and before we transfer Windows to a new PC, we need to make sure we have completely removed the operating system from the old PC.

If two Internet-connected PCs have Windows with the same product key, it's a matter of time before Microsoft blacklists the product key. After that, we won't be able to use it again for a new installation or reinstallation. A blacklisted key is essentially useless.

We can replace Windows with a Linux distribution, such as Ubuntu on the old PC. Or we can take out the hard drive and use it as an external hard drive in an enclosure.

Download Windows & create installation medium

If we don't have a Windows installation medium, we can download Windows ISOs for free. We have prepared guides for any possible scenario:

The above website will only work with retail Windows 7 product keys. It won't work with product keys from preinstalled (OEM) versions of Windows 7.

For Windows 8.1 and Windows 10, we can download the OS straight to an installation USB.

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With the Windows 7 ISOs, we can burn them to DVD or write them on USB.

Transfer Windows to a new PC

After we use our product key to install Windows on our new PC, if we have a retail Windows license, it will automatically activate when we connect to the Internet.

If however we have an OEM license, from a preinstalled version of Windows, the Internet activation will probably fail.

It doesn't matter that we have removed Windows from our old PC. Microsoft doesn't know that. Microsoft's servers still retain the old PC's Hardware Identification (HWID) connected to our product key.

For more information, check out our guide:
Windows Activation - How it Works and How it Breaks

Fortunately, this is an easy problem to fix. We just need to activate Windows through the telephone.

How to do a telephone Windows activation

If you are worried about speaking with a Microsoft representative, you don't need to worry. The telephone Windows activation system is completely automated; you won't need to talk to anyone.

First, we press Win + Pause/Break, and we click on the 'Activate Windows' link, at the lower right corner.

Then, we click on Call support.

We select our country.

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We will get a toll free number, and a 63 digit long Installation ID.

The automated phone system will guide us to enter the Installation ID using our phone keypad. After we have entered all nine groups, we click on the 'Enter confirmation ID'.

The automated phone system will dictate eight groups of numbers as the confirmation ID.

After we enter all the numbers, we click on 'Activate Windows'.

And that's it. Windows is activated.

Did you manage to transfer Windows?

If anything on the guide didn't work as described, and you weren't able to transfer Windows, leave us a comment.

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Installing a solid-state drive is one of the best upgrades you can make for your desktop computer. And the easiest way to get one into your system is to physically install it, connect the right cables, and reinstall Windows from scratch.

(This story originally ran in April 2013, written by Lifehacker alum and former editor-in-chief Whitson Gordon. It was updated in August 2018 by David Murphy.)

But maybe you don’t want to deal with setting up Windows (again), getting all of your critical files and folders back on a new hard drive, and reinstalling all your apps. We feel you. But there’s also another option when you’re migrating to a new SSD: cloning your old hard drive onto the new one. It’s (reasonably) fast and easy to do, and something you can set to run overnight if you don’t want to wait and watch. When you wake up and switch your system over to your new SSD, everything will be exactly as you left it.

How to Do a Clean Install of Windows Without Losing Your Files, Settings, and Tweaks

There's nothing like a fresh install of Windows to clear your mind, but it comes at a cost:…

A note for laptop owners

If you’re replacing your laptop’s drive with a new SSD, this entire process becomes a bit more difficult, since you probably only have room for one drive (unless your laptop comes with a spare slot for an M.2 SSD). You can pick up a USB-to-SATA adapter, an external dock, or one of these fancy gadgets and clone your primary drive to your new SSD that way.

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Depending on your USB connection and the size of your laptop’s drive, the cloning process could take anywhere from a reasonable to a large amount of time. However, the wait is worth it: replacing an older mechanical hard drive with a brand-new SSD is one of the best performance upgrades you can give your laptop.

Step One: Grab Macrium Reflect (free edition)

We’ll be using the application Macrium Reflect to clone your hard drive to your new SSD. You can find it here—just click on the big “home use” button. When you double-click on the installer, you’ll actually see a screen that looks like a downloading tool rather than your typical application installer. That’s correct. I’m not sure why Macrium Software goes this route instead of just offering up the entire app as a download, but there you go.

You shouldn’t have to change any options on this screen. Just click the “Download” button and follow all the prompts when it has completed. Once Macrium Reflect loads up, and assuming your new SSD is connected to your desktop or laptop, you’ll see a screen that looks something like this:

For the purposes of this article, I’ll be wiping my F: drive (“Tiny Game Drive”) and pretending I’m cloning my primary drive, C:, over to it. (I accidentally deleted my screenshot that showed F: as empty, so let’s play pretend for a moment.) Also, ignore the two hard drives in the middle (“Steam” and “Big Fatty”). I have a lot of drives in my desktop system.

Step Two: Setting up the clone

To get started, just click on the “Clone this disk” link underneath your primary hard drive, which should be selected by default. On the screen that appears, click on the “Select a disk to clone to” link in the big box of empty white space and pick your new SSD. Your screen should then look something like this:

You might have as many partitions as my example; you might have fewer. Regardless, you’re going to want to get them situated on your new SSD. You might just be able to click “copy selected partitions” and have everything map out perfectly on your new SSD. You might also get hit with a:

Sigh. In my example, I could fit the first four partitions onto my new SSD, but the fourth partition—my primary data partition—appeared as if it was eating up the rest of my SSD’s space, even though the SSD had plenty of room for every partition from my primary drive. To fix this, click on “Undo” and manually drag your partitions from your old hard drive onto your new SSD, saving the largest partition for last:

Once you’ve done that, click “Next.”

Step Three: Activating the clone

You’ll now see a screen that has a pretty detailed review of all the things Macrium Reflect is going to do once your clone starts. No, it hasn’t done anything yet—you’ve just been setting it up.

You can review these settings if you’d like, but you’re probably pretty safe to just hit “Finish,” which starts the procedure:

Depending on the size of the drive you’re going to—how much data Macrium Reflect has to move—as well as its speed, this process could take a little time. Mine was done in a smidge over a half-hour, but I was cloning an SSD (where my Windows partition lives) to an empty SSD for this example. In other words, the transfer was pretty speedy. Moving from a hard drive to an SSD might take four times as long (or more). If you’re impatient, you can just set up your clone to run overnight, and everything will be set once you wake up.

Step Four: Wrapping up

Now that you have a clone of your original drive, shut your computer off. Don’t do anything on your primary drive that might put data on your computer that you’d otherwise want to save, because that won’t be reflected on your cloned drive (obviously).

One small exception, however: Make a text file on your desktop that says “THIS IS THE OLD HARD DRIVE,” or something more witty than that.

If you’re replacing your old hard drive with your new SSD, disconnect your old hard drive from your desktop or laptop (likely a SATA and power cable) and plug in your new SSD right where your old drive used to be. You shouldn’t have to tweak anything else in your system’s BIOS—it should boot directly to your primary Windows partition on your new SSD. (Or, at least, mine did.)

If you’re keeping your old hard drive around, reconnect it to another SATA port (I’m assuming) on your desktop system. Check to make sure your computer doesn’t accidentally boot to it instead of your new SSD by seeing if the total size of your c: drive (in bytes, in its “Properties” screen) matches the capacity of your new SSD, not your old hard drive. That, or look for the “THIS IS THE OLD HARD DRIVE” text file on your BIOS, assuming you didn’t skip that step. If you’re booting to the hard drive accidentally, you’ll have to change your system’s boot order in your BIOS.

Assuming that your computer is correctly booting to your new SSD, pull up Computer Management (via the Start Menu), click on Disk Management, find your old hard drive, right-click on its various partitions, and select “Delete Volume” for each one. If this option is grayed out, you might need to use a third-party app like Paragon Hard Disk Manager (the free version) instead. Same concept, it’ll just allow you to delete your old volumes and re-partition the drive as a big fat chunk of empty space.

Step Five: Proper SSD maintenance

To confirm that Windows 10 correctly recognizes your new SSD, and performs all the right TRIM functions on a regular basis, click the Start button, type in “Defragment,” and select the first option: “Defragment and Optimize Drives.”

In the screen that appears, Windows should note that your primary C: drive is indeed a solid-state drive, like so:

You can also check that TRIM is enabled via the Command Prompt. Open up a Command Prompt with Administrator access (right-click on the shortcut, via the Start Menu, and select “Run as administrator”), and enter this command: fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify

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If you see a screen like this, you’re golden:

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If not, you can force Windows to enable TRIM by entering the following command: fsutil behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 0

While you’re at it, your SSD’s manufacturer likely has some kind of application it offers that you can use to ensure Windows (and your motherboard) are property configured for maximum performance. That, and these apps usually let you check for (and install) new firmware for your SSD. Head on over to your SSD manufacturer’s website, or the product page for your specific SSD, and see if there’s an app you can download and install, like Samsung’s Magician, for example:

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And make sure you use a third-party app like MiniTool Partition Wizard, if you’re moving from an older mechanical hard drive to a newer solid-state drive, to align your partitions for the best performance possible.